[Designer’s statement]

Following on from our previous season, this latest collection took its initial inspiration from my experiences designing stage costumes for Idomeneo, an opera written by Mozart that explores war and relationships in ancient Greece. The story, which takes place on the island of Crete in the Mediterranean Sea, is told using a stage design that incorporates an abundance of red ropes.

The scenes of armored figures, entangled in red ropes representing the sea, seemed to hint at multiple meanings, bringing me face to face with the unchanging nature of the human condition as it has stood from ancient times to the modern day.

The steel armor from the original opera is represented in this collection by delicate and fragile ceramics, used in dresses that create sound through the movement of the body, almost like a primitive musical instrument. The resulting pieces resemble a sort of armor that lacks any usefulness in combat. I also chose to include tailored suits as a modern callback to armor, superimposing our own age onto that of the ancient Greeks of over 5,000 years ago.

As if losing their original function, the suits crumble, drape, and turn inside out, transforming into ornaments for the body. From within, a lining of delicate, hand-knitted red thread begins to emerge. Red, the color that flows through each of our veins, looms forth from the black suits. My intention was to turn the very state of being clothed into something that exposes the individual even more than wearing no clothing at all. During combat, the most important feature of an item worn on the body is its functionality, which is as true now as it was in ancient times.

Functionality also serves as an important factor in evaluating the design of a given garment in the mass production-based apparel industry. By removing the garments’ functionality and making them purely decorative—inverting the original meaning of clothing—I sought to express my resistance to this trend.

Yuima Nakazato